{"id":47,"date":"2013-11-20T12:10:00","date_gmt":"2013-11-20T11:10:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/joe.goodmorningplanet.com\/2013\/11\/voyage-en-chine.html"},"modified":"2015-09-27T19:43:52","modified_gmt":"2015-09-27T19:43:52","slug":"longmen-et-xian","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/joelemoskito.com\/2013\/11\/longmen-et-xian.html","title":{"rendered":"Longmen et son Bouddha g\u00e9ant"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Petit voyage en Chine :\u00a0Les grottes de Longmen<\/i><\/h1>\n

Des centaines de petites niches creus\u00e9es dans la falaise sur plus d\u2019un kilom\u00e8tre, des statuettes de Bouddha et de ses disciples \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur\u2026 et en-dessous coule le Yi H\u00e9. Paysage fantastique, effet mystique accentu\u00e9 par la brume qui tombe sur les rochers et le fleuve.<\/p>\n

On grimpe les escaliers qui m\u00e8nent aux diff\u00e9rentes grottes et sculptures et on tombe finalement sur la plus impressionnante\u2026 un Bouddha de pierre de 17m de haut, entour\u00e9 par 6 autres statues un peu plus petites. On reste sans voix devant cette apparition. On bafouille quelques mots, on \u00e9change quelques regards ahuris et un l\u00e9ger sourire se dessine lentement sur nos l\u00e8vres\u2026 Impossible de d\u00e9tourner les yeux de ces sculptures gigantesques et \u00e9crasantes.<\/p>\n

\n

\"Bouddha,<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019est pour des moments comme celui-l\u00e0 qu\u2019on sait pourquoi on est l\u00e0, qu\u2019on accepte tout le reste, les heures de train, les fourmis dans les jambes et les bras, la fatigue, les heures de marche, la chaleur, les bus bond\u00e9s. Tout \u00e7a est balay\u00e9 en un instant et n\u2019a plus d\u2019importance face au spectacle offert ici, dans ces grottes. A contrec\u0153ur, on continue la visite, mais tout le reste semble\u2026 moins…<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

On traverse le fleuve et la vue en face de nous est alors magnifique, les statues immenses sculpt\u00e9es dans une niche tout aussi grande, et autour, des centaines d\u2019autres plus petites. La rivi\u00e8re \u00e0 nos pieds et aux leurs, la brume dans le ciel\u2026 mais o\u00f9 est-on ?<\/p>\n

\n
\"vue<\/a><\/div>\n

6h de bus pour rejoindre Xi\u2019An<\/a>, terminus oriental des caravanes de la Route de la Soie. Le bus nous l\u00e2che au milieu de nulle part et le recours au taxi devient ici indispensable et urgent, il est 22h pass\u00e9. On trouve une auberge pour la nuit.Durant cette journ\u00e9e, on est r\u00e9ellement pass\u00e9es d\u2019un extr\u00eame \u00e0 l\u2019autre : le Grand Bouddha de pierre, dont on ne peut d\u00e9tacher le regard. Et \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de \u00e7a, un voisin de bus pesant qui fume cigarette sur cigarette, qui bafouille trois mots d\u2019anglais entrecoup\u00e9 d\u2019un flot de paroles incompr\u00e9hensibles et qui lance des \u00ab yes sir \u00bb toutes les minutes. A c\u00f4t\u00e9 de \u00e7a, une auberge un peu glauque, tout en pierre o\u00f9 le bar ressemble de loin \u00e0 une taverne de vieux pirates et o\u00f9 on dort dans la cave parce que c\u2019est moins cher.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

La beaut\u00e9 et la trivialit\u00e9 en moins de 24h, \u00e7a fait beaucoup\u2026 mais peut-\u00eatre \u00e9tait-ce le prix \u00e0 payer pour l\u2019\u00e9merveillement de ce matin, et dans ce cas, soit. Voil\u00e0 une journ\u00e9e paradoxale, \u00e0 l\u2019image de la Chine enti\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

On se couche le ventre vide, mais les yeux remplis de bouddhas, on se couche dans une chambre humide, mais les mains effleurant encore les statuettes de pierre\u2026<\/p>\n

\n
\"statues<\/a>\"grottes<\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Petit voyage en Chine :\u00a0Les grottes de Longmen Des centaines de petites niches creus\u00e9es dans la falaise sur plus d\u2019un kilom\u00e8tre, des statuettes de Bouddha et de ses disciples \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur\u2026 et en-dessous coule le Yi H\u00e9. Paysage fantastique, effet mystique accentu\u00e9 par la brume qui tombe sur les rochers et le fleuve. On grimpe […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1490,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[32,10,34,11],"tags":[105,111,157,191,226,395,538,851,980,1000],"yoast_head":"\nLongmen et son Bouddha g\u00e9ant<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Extrait d'un carnet de voyage sur la Chine : Les grottes de Longmen et Xi'an et son arm\u00e9e enterr\u00e9e\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/joelemoskito.com\/2013\/11\/longmen-et-xian.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Longmen et son Bouddha g\u00e9ant\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Extrait d'un carnet de voyage sur la Chine : Les grottes de Longmen et Xi'an et son 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